Ziti's Italian Trattoria
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Thursday, September 1, 2011

Ziti’s brings Italy to canal district DINING REVIEW
By Ann Connery Frantz Telegram & Gazette reviewer


Wowzer! What a surprise to find Ziti’s, in the city’s Canal District, on a recent Saturday evening. With Shrewsbury Street so near, prospective diners may not swerve from their favorite spot to locate this sister restaurant to the Westboro Ziti’s, and that would be a shame. Outside, soft breezes on a dark late-summer evening brought out some pedestrians, and we watched them from our window table at the intersection of Harrison and Harding streets (formerly Roma’s location).

We aren’t accustomed to this neighborhood, and it seemed a bit forlorn, even with those strolling past, headed to nearby bars and eateries. The season picks up as college swings back in session, our waiter said. Randy proved generous with his time and consideration throughout the meal, stopping by to answer our questions about the food and the area. After we spotted a real estate sign on an opposite building touting “canal-front property,” Randy outlined the underground waters along Harding Street and mentioned a city goal of upgrading the area for students and visitors. (We thought of opportunities lost, in comparison with Lowell and Providence, both cities that took advantage of canal waters. While we’ve heard the talk about raising the canals, it looks like a far-off and far-too-expensive project.)

But back to reality — and it’s good at Ziti’s.

This restaurant deserves an adoring clientele. We’re fans of Italian food in particular, and have been to many of the region’s best Mediterranean establishments. Ziti’s stands out among them. Its ambiance, with soft lights and Italian ballads in the background, simple earth tones and décor, is reassuring — there are pizza ovens adjacent to the dining room, something that bears checking out later.

Starting with a good margarita ($6.95) and a white zinfandel ($6), we sampled a few slices of Italian bread and zesty olive oil dip — on the house — before ordering appetizers. The eggplant rolletini, part of a $22.95 three-course special, was scrumptious with a capital S. I hated to share, but did so out of the desire to indulge in my companion’s bruschetta Italiana ($4.95). Both were top-notch, with generous portions and mouth-watering flavors. Tomato, onion and garlic give the bruschetta its zip, and the rollatini consists of pan-fried eggplant filled with prosciutto and ricotta cheese. It was most unfortunate that my companion liked it so well, as I really had to share half-half, with some regret. By all means, try this appetizer.

The restaurant’s large selection of entrées defeats any notion of a single visit being the sum total of all that is Ziti’s. Return visits will be needed, to sample seafood, ravioli, chicken pasta dishes, salads and pizza.

Not only were we given the regular menu to choose from but a full sheet of specials, ranging from grilled salmon ($17.95) to a rotelli — chicken, scallops and spinach in pink sauce ($18.95), and a “trio” of chicken, meatball and sausage parmesan ($17.95). Beyond this came Ziti’s three-course special, with a choice from five appetizers, seven entrées, two desserts and a beverage. A word of warning: You will be full before you are finished eating. This was a very tough selection process, especially after such excellent appetizers.

The entrée for my three-course meal was a rich lobster ravioli — blended lobster and ricotta topped with a rich cheese sauce. The taste was all seafood and smooth ricotta, savory and filling, though I found the sauce just a tad too thick. Other three-course offerings included risotto scallopini — chicken sautéed with pancetta, mushrooms and garlic in white wine sauce; homemade rotelli with shrimp, scallops and spinach in sauce; and standard Italian favorites.

My companion picked the tri-color tortellini special ($18.95) — shrimp, chicken and sundried tomatoes in a light cream sauce with spinach. It was rich without smothering the individual flavors of its components, and he loved it. The entrée was, again, generously sized, and visually attractive. Our meal led to a relaxing conversation, as several other tables filled, and were assisted in similar fashion. We heard no complaints around us; everyone seemed to be a very happy camper.

By dessert time, we were approaching the stoplight, but courageously forged ahead in the spirit of discovery. I had two choices, Italian chocolate cake or a cannoli, and I chose the latter. Its citrus filling and sweet cookie-crunch wrap won my heart. My companion’s choice was more than either or both of us could consume: a gigantic lobster tail pastry filled with sweet ricotta ($7.95). The filling was great, but the pastry was doughy and uninviting.

Overall, Ziti’s offers excellent food, generous portions, super-helpful and friendly waiters, and a lovely atmosphere. Get there. Cost for two came to $72.49, to which we added a 20 percent tip, for a total of $87.49.
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